In summer, greening construction happens from time to time. In order to ensure the survival of trees, appropriate technical measures must be taken. This article summarizes the technical measures of how to improve the survival rate of summer greening by discussing technical measures such as seedling preparation, planting timing, seedling shipment, seedling pruning, seedling planting, and post-planting management.
Seedling selection and preparation
1. Seedling selection
Due to the high temperature in summer, the large amount of evaporation, and the relatively harsh climatic environment, we should try our best to choose seedling species that are heat-resistant, high-temperature resistant, and have relatively small evaporation, and the size should not be too large. It requires a strong growth, a well-developed root system, and no pests. Take premature root cutting or fake planting measures.
2. Seedling protection
Choose before 9 a.m. and after 3 p.m. when the seedlings rise, try to avoid the noon high temperature period; for bare-rooted seedlings, use mud or macromolecule absorbent to soak the roots; pack and shade during transportation; The seedlings should be planted as far as possible, and the seedling storage period should not exceed one day and night, and the seedlings should be scattered during storage, and water should be properly sprayed to keep them moist.
3. Preparation before planting
Before planting, the physical and chemical properties of the soil should be tested and analyzed, and corresponding disinfection, fertilization, and soil replacement measures should be taken to ensure the thickness of the planting soil. The soil quality must be fertile and loose, with good air permeability and drainage. It is necessary to prepare the ground in advance and dig tree holes to facilitate quick planting and avoid delays in time. The size of the planting hole should meet and exceed the standard requirements as much as possible. If it contains construction waste and harmful substances, the tree hole must be enlarged and the planting soil must be replaced. Decomposed organic fertilizer should be applied to the hole as a base fertilizer, and the hole should be soaked before planting in dry soil areas.
Construction timing
Due to the high temperature in summer, the large amount of evaporation, and the relatively harsh climatic environment, we should try our best to choose seedling species that are heat-resistant, high-temperature resistant, and have relatively small evaporation, and the size should not be too large. It requires a strong growth, a well-developed root system, and no pests. Take premature root cutting or fake planting measures.
Seedling shipment
1. excavation
To ensure the survival of seedlings transplanted in summer, soil balls should be transplanted and the soil balls should be enlarged accordingly. Generally, the diameter of the soil balls is 8 to 10 times the diameter of the tree at breast height and the thickness is 2/3 of the diameter.
When starting excavation, first shovel the surface soil until the first layer of lateral roots are exposed, and then gradually expand to the periphery to the determined position of the diameter of the soil ball, and form a certain slope from the inside to the outside. Secondly, dig a vertical trench at 30-40cm away from the soil ball. Third, the soil ball should not be knocked apart during excavation, let alone damage the remaining lateral roots and main roots.
2. Packaging
Seedling packaging generally uses the commonly used straw rope network binding method. The specific method is: first use straw rope (****** is moistened) to wrap the soil ball across the waist, the width accounts for 1/3 of the thickness of the soil ball, and then tie the straw rope to the trunk or waistband, up and down The cross wraps are in a network shape, and must be tied tightly when strapping.
3. Hoisting
Before loading the seedlings, use straw ropes, linen cloth or straw bales to wrap the trunks and branches, while spraying water on the treetops to keep the straw ropes and straw bales moist. When loading the seedlings, handle with care to prevent the roots and branches from breaking and the soil from being lost. . If the diameter of the soil ball is less than 1m, tie the base of the trunk with hemp rope or steel wire rope cushion, and hoist slowly, and do not touch the loose soil ball to damage the branch; if the diameter of the soil ball is more than 1m, use hemp rope or steel wire rope to hold the soil ball. If the trunk is too long or the canopy is too large, use a tow rope to control the direction of the tree to avoid collision. The place where the rope contacts the soil ball should be padded with hard objects to prevent the rope from being inserted into the soil ball to cut the grass rope and cause damage to the soil ball. When the seedlings are loaded into the truck, the soil ball should be placed forward and the tree crown should be stacked neatly, and the soil ball and the tree crown should be tied and fixed.
Seedling pruning
1. Trim before digging
For broad-leaved trees, short-cutting and thinning of branches can be taken for those with a DBH below 10cm, and the height of the stem can be 4~5m; for those with a DBH greater than 10cm, except for individual backbone branches, other lateral branches should be cut off from the base, and certain trees should be kept during pruning. Type, so that the tree can form a good crown after survival. For evergreen tree species, only a small amount of pruning at the base of the side branches to maintain the tree shape.
2. Pruning before planting
Part of the leaves should be removed before the seedlings are planted, but the young shoots should not be injured. The pruning method and amount are as follows:
Before planting, pruning the roots of the seedlings should be carried out. It is advisable to cut off the split roots, diseased and insect roots, and overlong roots, and trim the crown of the tree to maintain the ground and underground balance.
Deciduous trees can be thinned out and then cut strongly, leaving growing branches and strong sprouting branches, and the amount of pruning can reach 2/3. For evergreen broad-leaved trees, adopt the method of shrinking the crown, cut off the outer branches, appropriately sparse the weak branches inside the crown, and leave strong budding branches. The amount of pruning can reach 1/3. Conifers are mainly thin branches, and the amount of pruning can reach 1/5 to 2/5. Rare tree species should be thinned.
The pruning of shrubs and vines should be done: seedlings with soil balls and flowering shrubs with flower bud differentiation of the previous year should not be pruned, only dead branches, diseased branches and branches should be cut. Shrubs with obvious branches and new shoots with flowering buds should be pruned appropriately to promote new shoots. For grafted shrubs, all budding branches of the rootstock below the interface should be cut off.
The pruning of seedlings should be smooth and not split. When pruning large branches and thick roots with a diameter of more than 2 cm, a protective agent should be applied to the cut. When the branches are short cut, the outer buds should be left, and the cutting mouth should be more than 1cm away from the position of the buds.
Seedling planting
1. Plant on the same day
The exposure time of bare-root seedlings should not exceed 8 hours. Seedlings that cannot be planted that day should be fake planted and sprayed to keep the soil ball moist.
2. Fill support
After the tree is placed in the hole, the packaging must be removed in time, and the perishable packaging can be cut and shredded. When burying the soil, it should be compacted in layers. Fill the soil while watering if possible. The height of the fill should generally be about 10cm higher than the base of the trunk. Step on the cofferdam, water it immediately, and support the trunk.
3. Trunk bandaging
In order to prevent excessive transpiration and reduce the loss of water in the trunk, the trunk can be wrapped with straw ropes and other materials. The wrapping is divided into two types: full wrap and half wrap. Independent trunks or those with few branches can be fully wrapped. For those with many branches or with a crown, only the part from the stem base to the branch point is wrapped.
Post-plant management
After the trees are planted, management measures should be increased in watering, setting up sunshade nets, canopy spray, and trunk moisturizing.
1. Hydration
In sunny conditions, spray water at least twice a day on the crowns and ropes of newly planted trees. The time should be before 9 am and after 4 pm to ensure the water needed for plant transpiration.
After planting, a cofferdam with a height of 10-15cm should be built around the planting hole, and water should be poured in time. After the water seeps, the soil should be covered. The next day, the weir should be watered and covered with soil, and the third irrigation should be done a week later. After irrigating three times, water can be added in time according to the dryness of the soil, and the soil should be loosened and weeded frequently. After the winter, watering should be controlled to increase the lignification of the branches to prevent freezing damage. In the second year, the stent was removed, the bandage was removed, and the normal management was entered.
2. Fertilizer supplement
In order to restore the tree vigor and expand the crown, rooting powder with a concentration of 1000ppm should be applied after the seedlings are planted, and 5‰ to 10‰ of urea, potassium dihydrogen phosphate or foliar fertilizer can also be used for foliar spraying.
3. Build a shade net
Set up sunshade nets to prevent seedlings from getting sunburned, and keep a certain distance between the sunshade nets and the planted trees for air circulation.
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